Meander through the lanes of Bangkok's Chinatown and see the city's evolution encapsulated. In the east, gentrification is taking root with many more chic little cafes, hipster bars and cool hostels sprouting up. In the middle, much remains unchanged - temples and shrines around each corner, the sights, smells and sounds of busy Sampeng Lane and Itsaranuphap still enthralling - but the extension of the subway threatens to change all that. In the west, old school spots stand their ground, selling retro kitchen gadgets and age old buttons, staging khon traditional drama in an old theatre, and sporting fashions and trends from the 1960s. Nancy Chandler's Map of Chinatown lays out all there is to see and do - day and night - for day trippers, nightlife fans, and visitors seeking an authentic experience by staying in the area for a night or two.