"cruel birds — ravens — but wise. and creatures should be loved for their wisdom if they cannot be loved for kindness."
– hannah kent
photography by Emily C Gillies
The name for this design came up in a conversation with a friend about corvids (a frequent topic of discussion if you happen to be friends with me). My friend commented on how it felt perfectly acceptable to refer to a group of crows as a murder, but the fact that the collective noun for ravens was an unkindness felt very not okay. After giving it some thought, I realized that — for me, at least — it was because we use the word “murder” rather loosely in North American discourse: “I’m going to murder my cat,” for example, is an oddly lighthearted, sometimes even loving expression. But to call someone unkind is personal, even cruel. Ravens, like crows, have wide-ranging symbolic associations: most often, they're associated with ill omen, death, and loss. But they're just as often linked with prophecy and insight, acting as messengers between the realms of living and dead.
The Kindness of Ravents (TKOR, for short) is a sweater for knitters who love the journey: it's full of interesting technical details that will keep your hands and mind busy. The colourwork, which takes inspiration from one my first-ever knitting patterns (the Corvids, 19 Cowl), is mostly knit in two colours, with a couple of three-colour rounds.
The following sections provide a detailed overview of TKOR's construction, sizing, yarn choices, and test knitter photos and feedback. If you're ready to take the plunge, check out the pattern listing! You can also check out the #TheKindnessOfRavens hashtag on Instagram to see related posts.
Construction
TKOR is a close-fitting colourwork and cabled sweater worked seamlessly from the bottom up, using set-in sleeves and short-row sleeve cap shaping. You begin by casting on for the bottom hem, knit the body in the round up to the underarm, and then work the front and back separately. After seaming the shoulders together with Kitchener stitch, you pick up the stitches for the neckband. After finishing the neckband, you pick up for the sleeves, which are worked in the round.
The model (me!) is 5'4" / 162.5 cm tall, with a chest circumference of 30" / 76 cm and a high hip circumference of 32" / 81 cm. I'm wearing a Size 2, with relatively no ease.
Materials
Yardage, needles and gauge information can all be found on page 4 of the TKOR Schematics.
What I really want to talk to you about is fibre quality. The yarn I used for my sample – Emily C Gillies Corriedale Sock – was the foundation for this design. It's a 2-ply, high-twist yarn spun from 100% non-superwash corriedale wool. It has beautiful stitch definition, a touch of toothiness, and excellent shape memory – three qualities that make it outstanding for both colourwork and cables.
Emily provided some suggestions for more affordable wool options, which are listed on page 4 of the linked schematics doc.
Superwash merino, single-ply merino, or other superfine fibres are not particularly good substitutes for this design. Fibres that are typically super drapey, such as 100% alpaca, cashmere, or plant fibres won't give you enough structure or shape memory. If you're allergic to wool, I recommend looking into acrylic or cotton-acrylic blends. If you're experimenting with alternative fibres, I highly recommend knitting and blocking a sizeable swatch of both the colourwork and cable texture to get a sense for the fabric.
Basically: you want something that you can block, something with shape memory, and something with a bit of grip to really make the colourwork sing. If you've got a suggestion for non-wool alternatives, let me know (disyarning at gmail dot com) and I'll gladly add it to this section.
Techniques
- Knitting in the round
- Knitting flat
- Kitchener stitch
- 2- and 3-stranded colourwork
- Cable knitting
- Short rows (wrap & turn, although you can substitute German short rows)
- Picking up stitches
- Directional increases & decreases
I hesitate to assign labels like "beginner" or "advanced" to patterns, as they're fairly subjective terms. I do recommend having experience with stranded colourwork, and garment making – you need to know how to measure your body and choose sizes based on those measurements. You also should be comfortable "reading" your knitting as you will be working multiple techniques at once. This is especially true for shaping the sleeve caps, where you'll be working short rows and the cable pattern at the same time, which sometimes require working cables from the wrong side. I provide detailed instructions for the sleeve cap shaping in the pattern, along with any other non-standard techniques, and link to photo tutorials where possible.
Sizing
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) [6, 7, 8, 9] (10, 11, 12, 13) {14, 15, 16, 17}, providing a range of full chest circumferences from 31.5" / 80 cm to 60.75" / 154 cm.
The pattern is divided into 2 PDFs for clarity: one contains sizes 1-9, the other sizes 10-17. You receive both PDFs with the full range of sizes with your purchase.
For full sizing schematics, see the TKOR Schematics.
This pattern was professionally graded by Heather Folkner and is intended for 0-3" of negative ease.
The design presented a unique challenge in that the colourwork motif is quite wide (one full repeat is 4.5" / 11.5 cm), which restricts the number of possible body circumferences, particularly over the hip. We achieved a dynamic range of sizes through the armhole shaping. As a result, the key measurements used to choose your size are:
- High hip: choose a size as close to your actual high hip circumference as possible, erring toward positive ease if you're in between sizes
- Full chest: choose a size that provides a maximum of 3" / 7.5 cm of negative ease
- Cross-back width: choose a size as close as possible to your actual cross-back width
While the pattern is graded for 0-3" (7.5 cm) negative ease, several test knitters had success choosing a size with a few inches of positive ease. This does change the fit of the sweater, however: the neckline will be a little wider and you'll end up with more of a drop-shoulder look, which may affect how the body of the sweater hangs; check out the test knitter photos for examples of different amounts of positive ease. Use your best judgment and past garment experience to guide your choice.
But wait! What if my measurements don't match one specific size?
Every body is unique, and my intent was to write a pattern that provides a great foundation and also empowers the knitter to modify the pattern to achieve their best fit. Because the base body circumference is limited by the colourwork motif, pay close attention to the schematics: If your upper body measurements (critically, your cross-back measurement) matches one size, but your hip circumference matches another, take advantage of the additional sizing notes included in the pattern to mix and match sizes. You achieve this by casting on for the size that best fits your hip circumference and then, after finishing the colourwork chart, gradually increase or decrease to the size that best fits your upper body.
Another key point of variance is the upper arm circumference: most size charts (which are what we use to grade patterns) assume a standard upper arm circumference proportional to chest circumference. Real bodies, however, often have a lot more variance between these two proportions. The size that best fits your upper body circumference may not be the size that best fits your upper arm circumference. I provide instruction directly in the pattern on how and when to mix and match body and sleeve sizes – and it's way easier than it sounds!
I do want to be up front about something: this pattern doesn't include instructions for additional bust shaping. People with large breasts often find the front hem of their sweater rises higher than the back, due to the fabric having to stretch further to accommodate the chest. As part of a general shift toward more size/shape inclusive design, many designers have started including optional bust shaping, usually achieved through short rows, and this is fantastic.
So why isn't it in my pattern? I discussed this at length with both my tech editor/pattern grader Heather, and with my group of test knitters, and ultimately, it came down to pragmatics. Bust shaping is a deeply personal matter: how much additional ease you need and where to place them is very specific to your body. Trying to incorporate a full range of cup sizes into an all-over cable repeat, in a pattern that spans a full 17 sizes (and 17 pages), became very complicated very quickly. As a group, we decided it was better to focus on providing a comprehensive base pattern that gives you a solid foundation. I do include a link to a comprehensive tutorial on bust shaping, and I encourage you to try it if you're an experienced garment knitter.
That being said, the cable texture is very stretchy: it can accommodate a lot. If you don't want to mess with bust shaping, you can accommodate the rising-hemline issue by increasing the body length a few inches; your front hem will still rise a little, but you won't risk flashing a navel (unless, of course, you want to!).
Finally: Always make sure you try on the body of the sweater before separating for the armholes. The pattern is graded for a consistent torso length across all sizes. I am 5'4, and the bottom hem on my sweater sits a couple of inches below the waistband of my jeans. If you're significantly taller than I am, you may want to buy an extra skein of MC and add a few more inches to your sweater to accommodate the difference.
I've done my absolute best to create a pattern that is clearly written, well-fitting, modifiable, and fun. I'm not foolish enough to think I'm perfect, however, or that I've anticipated every possible need. If you're not sure about sizing or modifications for fit, I am always available for pattern support through email (disyarning at gmail dot com).
Ready to knit? Check out the pattern listing.
Test knitter spotlight
l'd like to take a moment – several moments! full minutes, even! – to thank my truly dedicated, superstar, absolutely badass group of test knitters: Raeli, Steph, Boroka, Annabela, Moira, Claudia, April, Zero, Diedre, Megan, Siobhan, Shelby, Amber, AnnaSara, Tiffany, Rebecca, Vera, Kae, Sarah, Grace and Neko. This was a challenging pattern to write, and these incredible humans stuck it out with me and Heather for a full 8 months while we fine-tuned the pattern. Test knitters were encouraged to choose their sizes based on what they felt would give them their desired fit, and to modify for length, etc, as needed. A few of the test knitters graciously consented to me sharing their FO pictures, so you can see how the pattern looks through the various sizes, on various bodies, with various modifications.
Steph (IG: creative_owlette) - Size 1
Steph is 5' / 152.5 cm and wearing a Size 1. She has 1" / 2.5 cm of negative ease at her full chest and 2" / 5 cm of positive ease at her high hip. She knit the recommended 16.25" / 41 cm length for the body (underarm to bottom hem). Her sample is knit out of Jon Arbon Knit by Numbers 4-ply.
Claudia (IG: casa.de.berry) - Size 5
Claudia is 5'2 / 157.5 cm and wearing a Size 5. She has zero ease, and knit the recommended 16" / 40.5cm length for the body (underarm to bottom hem). She did, however, modify the sleeve cap shaping to accommodate her rounder shoulders: she worked half the amount of short rows as listed in the pattern, and then knit the rest of the sleeve as written. Her sample is knit out of Knit Picks Palette (MC and CC1) and Cast and Dye Lakehouse Fingering (CC2).
Deidre (IG: @lunarpurl) - Size 6
Deidre is 5'5" / 165 cm and wearing a Size 5. She has 2" / 5 cm of positive ease at her full chest and 4.5" / 11 cm of positive ease at her high hip. She knit the recommended 16" / 40.5 cm length for the body (underarm to bottom hem). Her sample is knit out of Wool2Dye4 high-twist sock base (80% superwash BFL, 20% nylon), which she kettle-dyed herself!
Shelby (IG: @spider_fingers) - Size 9
Shelby is wearing a Size 9. She 4" / 10 cm of positive ease at her chest and 2" / 5 cm of positive ease at her hips. Her sample is knit out of BC Garn Bio Balance (one of the yarns the dyer recommended as a suitable substitute for the Corriedale Sock).
She noted that while this yarn was fantastic for its stitch definition and colourwork, it's slightly itchy for her. If you tend to be sensitive to more rustic wools, the BC Garn Bio Balance may not be the yarn for you!
Tiffany (IG: @tiffknitthat) - Size 12
Tiffany is 5'11 / 152.5 cm and wearing a Size 12. She has approximately 3" / 7.5 cm of positive ease at her chest. She knit an extra 4.25" / 11 cm for a total underarm-to-bottom-hem length of 20" / 50.8 cm and added an extra 1" / 2.5 cm to the sleeves. Her sample is knit out of Emily C Gillies Corriedale Sock (100% non-superwash corriedale) in Velvet Underground (MC), Nimbus (CC1), and Juniper (CC2).
Kae (IG: @kaethegrandmafriend) - Size 11/14 (spliced, with modifications)
Kae is 5'3 / 160 cm tall and wearing a spliced Size 11/14. They cast on the Size 14, and then, after completing the colourwork chart, gradually decreased to a Size 11 for their upper body. They knit the armholes to the Size 14 length, and knit Size 14 sleeves. They have 1" / 2.5 cm of positive ease at their hips, and 1.5" / 3.8 cm of positive ease at their chest. They added an extra 5" / 12.5 cm to the body for a total underarm-to-bottom-hem length of 20" / 50.5 cm. Their sample is knit out of Holst Garn Supersoft.
Kae acted as a bit of a test subject: we had the chance to mix and match sizes at the hip, chest and arms, and their feedback was critical in helping me understand how I needed to write the pattern to support custom sizing options. They added extra length to the body because they prefer longer sweaters in general, but the added length also helped deal with any hemline rise, since the pattern doesn't include bust dart shaping.
Their yarn choice also required a minor modification: Holst Supersoft is a low-twist 2-ply wool and has less structure than the corriedale I used for my sample. As a result, Kae found their neckband ribbing was kind of floppy despite sizing down their needles, so they added some decreases to the collar to help it lay flat.
Sarah (IG: @firesandflowers) - Size 15
Sarah is 5'6 / 170 cm tall and wearing a Size 15. She has 6" / 15 cm of positive ease at the bust and 10" / 25.5 cm of positive ease at her hips. She knit the the recommended 15.5" / 39 cm for the body (underarm to bottom hem). Her sample is knit out of Kokon Yarn Bleu fingering weight (MC), Malabrigo sock yarn (CC1), and Barnyard Knits merino-nylon fingering (CC2).
She says: "One thing I struggle a lot with is how to pick the right size/amount of ease. As a plus size knitter, negative ease makes me nervous. ...In hindsight, I’m guessing this sweater might have been a great candidate to try more negative ease again. At first, I was thinking if I were to go back in time and start over, I would have fixed the colourwork gauge and maybe even gone down a pattern size…. but I’ve gotten attached to this sweater as it is! I wear mostly a-line dresses like those in the modelled photos and I think it looks gorgeous layered over dresses and skirts. Since this sweater doesn’t have bust darts (which would have been challenging in an all over cable pattern) and I ended up with positive ease instead of negative ease, it results in a slight raise on the front/back. It doesn’t bother me, but it is something to consider when planning what size and how much ease you want!"
Sarah also made a mod to the sleeves: To achieve a consistent fit across sizes, I wrote the pattern to have a stockinette panel at the underarm so that the circumference wouldn't be constrained by the 18-stitch cable repeat. Sarah chose to tweak the number of stitches she picked up to be divisible by the cable repeat, and worked her decreases in pattern.
Neko (IG: knotted_rose) - Size 17
Neko is 6'1 / 185.5 cm tall and wearing a Size 17. She has 12.75" / 32 cm of positive ease at the bust and .25" / .5 cm of positive ease at her hips. She knit the the recommended 15.5" / 39 cm for the body (underarm to bottom hem). Her sample is knit out of Knit Picks Stroll Tweed.
She says: "I love the way the sweater turned out. It has a very cozy oversized fit on me. However, if I were to knit it again ... with the zero/negative ease intended, I would cast on for a Size 17, then decrease down a few sizes after the colourwork. ... I would also add 5-6" to the length of the sweater so it would reach just below the zipper on a pair of jeans on my body. Following directions as is on my 6'1 frame, it sits just above the waistband, showing some tummy if I raise my arms even a little bit." She adds that, if she were to knit with the intended negative ease, she might add additional decreases to the sleeves for a more fitted look.
Ready to knit? Check out the pattern listing!