The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the most iconic and breathtaking long-distance hikes in the world. It circumnavigates the Mont Blanc massif, the highest peak in Western Europe, which spans across France, Italy, and Switzerland. The trek offers a stunning combination of alpine scenery, rich cultural heritage, and diverse landscapes, from lush valleys and alpine meadows to towering mountain peaks and glaciers.
Let's get straight in to the details.
Distance and Duration:
- Total Distance: About 170 kilometers.
- Average Duration: Typically, the hike takes 10 to 12 days, although the time can vary depending on your pace, route choices, and how long you spend at each stop.
- Elevation Gain: The total ascent over the course of the trek is roughly 10,000 meters, with several challenging climbs and descents along the way.
The TMB is considered a moderate to challenging trek. The terrain varies greatly, with some days being more demanding due to steep ascents and possible inclement weather. Hikers should be physically fit and comfortable with long, strenuous days of hiking.
The trail starts and ends in Les Houches, a village near Chamonix in France, and loops around the Mont Blanc massif. The typical route follows a clockwise direction, though some people opt to hike it counterclockwise.
Why I Chose the TMB:
When I first set my sights on hiking the TMB, I knew it would be the adventure of a lifetime. A trek that not only promised a physical challenge but also the opportunity to immerse myself in the sheer beauty of the Alps. The allure of hiking across three countries, camping under the stars, and carrying all our gear added an extra layer of excitement and perhaps a bit of intimidation.
Spanning eight unforgettable days (we didn't complete the full route due to time constraints), this trek pushed my limits, offered breathtaking vistas, exhilarating climbs, and the undeniable thrill of completing a challenge like no other. From snow-capped peaks to lush alpine meadows, every step brought a new view, and every turn on the trail seemed to unveil a more jaw-dropping panorama than the last. Adding an extra layer to this journey was the adventure of camping. Carrying everything we needed, from a tent to sleeping bags on our back not only made the trek more challenging but also more rewarding. Each night, after a full day of hiking, setting up camp felt like an accomplishment in itself.
I had done multi-day hikes before, but the TMB was a different beast entirely. The climbs were steeper, the descents harsher, and the days were longer than I had anticipated. But with every aching muscle (mainly my calves and hip flexors!), I found myself growing, not just physically, but mentally. The mental fortitude needed for this kind of trek is something you can’t fully prepare for. There are moments when you feel completely spent, when the trail seems endless, and your body protests every step. But it’s in those moments that the real journey happens. Pushing through those barriers, finding the strength to keep going even when the end destination feels far out of reach, is what makes this trek SO rewarding!
Getting There:
Our adventure began the moment we landed at Turin Airport. We knew the journey would be just as exciting as the trek itself. We hopped onto a bus from the airport that took us straight into the heart of Turin. Purchase your bus tickets here.
A quick stop in Turin and we were back on the move, we catched a 2hr train to Aosta. Get your train tickets here. As we watched the Italian landscape change from bustling urban life to serene alpine views, we knew we were getting closer to the mountains. The train ride was scenic and peaceful—an ideal way to take in the beauty of the region.
Once in Aosta, we didn’t have much time to waste. We caught a bus heading toward Chamonix, France, where the real adventure would begin. The journey through winding roads and breathtaking vistas felt like a preview of what awaited us on the TMB. Finally, we arrived in Chamonix—a charming mountain town with the perfect balance of rustic charm and modern amenities. Check the bus schedule beforehand and book your bus tickets in advance here.
From Chamonix, we took a short 15 minute bus ride to Les Houches, the official start of the TMB. Chamonix Mobilité is the company that serves the route, called line 1 and tickets can be purchased on the spot in cash.
Best Time to Hike and Camp the TMB:
The best time to hike and camp the TMB is during the summer months, typically between late June and early September. During this period, the weather is generally more stable, with the majority of the snow melted, and most of the huts and campsites along the trail are open. Early summer (late June) and early autumn (early September) can provide a quieter, more peaceful experience, while mid-summer offers the warmest conditions but also the most crowds.
Make sure to plan for all weather conditions, and prepare for cold nights at higher altitudes.The weather in the Alps can be unpredictable, so it’s essential to be prepared for various conditions, even during the best months.
- The average temperature during summer months typically ranges from 15°C to 25°C at lower altitudes, but it can drop significantly, even below freezing, at higher elevations, especially at night. We hiked the trail in mid-August and the temperature reached 30°C due to a heatwave, it was incredibly hot, yet at night, the temperatures still dropped close to 0°C.
- Afternoon thunderstorms are common, particularly in the later summer months. Be prepared for rain and bring waterproof gear.
- At higher altitudes, snow can persist into June, and in some cases, the trail might not fully open until mid-July. If you’re planning to go in early summer, check trail conditions beforehand.
Camping vs Staying at Refuges on the TMB:
The option of wild camping can be enticing, offering freedom and a closer connection to nature. However, it’s important to note that wild camping is treated differently depending on the country you’re in. Wild camping is allowed in France, but not allowed in Italy. In fact, Italy has some of the strictest regulations when it comes to camping in natural areas. Fines can be hefty if you’re caught camping outside of designated campsites. Similar to Italy, wild camping is prohibited in Switzerland. Your best bet is to stay in one of the many designated campsites or mountain refuges that dot the trail.
The mountain huts, or refuges, along the TMB are beloved for offering trekkers a cozy place to rest after a long day of hiking. They provide shelter from the elements, meals, and the chance to socialize with other hikers. However, the demand for these refuges is high, and during the peak hiking months (June to September), they can fill up months in advance. These huts are typically small, so the availability of space is limited. Second, the TMB is one of the most popular treks in Europe, and spots fill up quickly as hikers from all over the world plan their trips. Most refuges along the TMB offer online booking through their official websites. Some huts may offer half-board options (accommodation plus meals), so booking ahead also helps you plan your food needs.
Advantages of Staying in Refuges:
- Refuges provide hot meals and comfortable beds (albeit in shared dormitories), which can make the TMB experience more manageable and enjoyable.
- The refuges serve as great places to meet fellow trekkers from around the world. After a challenging day of hiking, sharing stories with others over a warm meal can enhance your experience.
- In case of bad weather, refuges provide shelter, which can make a huge difference compared to camping in the rain or snow.
While staying in mountain huts is a popular choice for many hikers, some prefer the freedom of camping.
Advantages of Camping:
- One of the biggest draws of wild camping is the freedom to set up camp wherever you like (on the French side). This means you can tailor your hike to your own pace, take breaks when you need, and camp in quieter, more secluded spots away from the crowds.
- Camping provides a more immersive experience in nature.
- If you’re on a budget, wild camping is cheaper than staying in refuges.
- The TMB can be crowded, particularly in the summer months. Camping gives you the opportunity to escape the busier sections of the trail.
Disadvantages of Camping:
- Camping at high altitudes means you’ll need to be prepared for changing and sometimes extreme weather. Even in summer, temperatures can drop significantly, and heavy rain or snow can make for an uncomfortable night under the stars.
- If you choose to camp, you’ll need to carry your camping gear, which adds extra weight to your pack.
- While wild camping is allowed in France, not all areas are suitable or legal for camping. You’ll need to plan carefully to find areas where camping is permitted.
We opted to camp all the way and it was a mix of the freedom aspect and the fact that we booked last minute and so, there were no avail abilities left in the refuges for our dates. No matter what you choose, both options offer unique experiences.
Trail Overview:
Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a first-timer, knowing the details of each stage, along with the available accommodation and campsite options, will help you plan an unforgettable journey.
For those with limited time or seeking a more relaxed pace, there are several shorter variations of the TMB. Many hikers opt to complete just a section of the full circuit, such as the popular Chamonix to Courmayeur stretch or Les Houches to Champex. These sections allow you to experience some of the most stunning parts of the trail without committing to the entire loop.
Due to limited time this is exactly what we did, we covered the stretch between Les Houches and Courmayeur.
Read all about the 10 stages and the available accommodation and campsite options here.
Navigating the Trail:
The route is well-marked, making it relatively straightforward. Trail markings on the TMB follow a standard system used across much of Europe. The most common markers are red-and-white horizontal stripes, which are painted on rocks, trees, and posts to guide you along the trail. These markings indicate that you are on the correct path. In addition to the red-and-white stripes, specific signs and symbols are used at key junctions to indicate the route’s direction. These include arrows pointing toward various stages of the trail or nearby villages. Always keep an eye out for these markers, especially at trail intersections where it's easy to lose your way. An app like AllTrails on your phone provides extra security.
Food and Water on the TMB:
There are numerous refuges along the way where you can enjoy hearty meals, ranging from traditional French alpine dishes to pasta, soups, and sandwiches. Breakfast and dinner are often provided by these huts if you're staying overnight. If you're camping or prefer more flexibility, pack lightweight, high-energy snacks like energy bars, nuts, and dried fruit to keep your energy up between stops. The TMB offers plenty of opportunities to refuel so don't worry too much!
Carry a refillable water bottle, there are many water fountains along the route, where you can stop and refill your bottle. Most refuges along the route also offer water for refills, but always ask to be sure.
Packing and Gear:
Whether you're camping or staying in mountain huts along the way, check out our blog post on the essential gear you'll need to successfully complete the TMB, here.
Final Tips:
- Begin your days early to make the most of daylight and avoid the heat in summer months. Early starts also give you more time to handle unexpected delays.
- Only carry essentials to keep your pack manageable which will make your experience much more enjoyable.
- Especially in peak season, book your stays at mountain refuges or campsites in advance to guarantee a spot. They fill up quickly!
- Stay on marked trails, pack out all trash, and follow Leave No Trace principles to preserve the beauty of the TMB.
- The weather can change rapidly in the mountains. Be prepared to adapt your plans if necessary.
- Familiarize yourself with the local emergency services, including the mountain rescue number (112 in the EU), for peace of mind.
What to Do in Chamonix or Courmayeur Before or After the TMB Hike:
Take some time to explore the charming towns of Chamonix (France) and Courmayeur (Italy). Stroll through the charming streets, filled with quaint shops and cafes.
Chamonix:
- Aiguille du Midi: Take the famous cable car to Aiguille du Midi for breathtaking panoramic views of Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks. It’s a great way to acclimatize to the altitude and get a glimpse of the TMB route from above.
- Montenvers Mer de Glace: Visit the Mer de Glace glacier via a scenic cogwheel train. Explore the ice caves and enjoy the stunning glacier views—perfect for nature lovers.
If you're limited with time, This day tour combines both experiences at a very good price point for everything that is included.
Courmayeur:
- Skyway Monte Bianco: Ride the Skyway cable car for spectacular views of Mont Blanc and its glaciers, and enjoy a coffee at the top while taking in the scenery.
Final Thoughts:
If you’re someone who loves nature, seeks a physical challenge, and wants to cross borders in the most literal sense, I can’t recommend the TMB enough. It’s not just a hike—it’s a journey that will stay with you long after you’ve descended back into the valleys.
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Happy Travels! x
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