A couple of weeks ago I received a message from a dear friend offering me a free day out to visit the Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto exhibition at the V&A. As a member of the V&A she can visit any exhibition, any day for 'free' and take a friend too (also for free!). We arrived around 12.30 and had a cup of coffee in the beautiful café, which was packed with (mainly women) who I would guesstimate were mostly there for the same reason as us.
Although I acknowledge that Chanel is one of the most influential designers of the 20th Century I do not think I would have necessarily chosen to go unless my friend had asked. I was concerned it was going to be row upon row of 'little Black Dresses' and the infamous Chanel suit. How wrong was I though. It was a thoroughly eye opening experience revealing the evolution of a truly inventive designer.
Her early work was fascinating in how she cut and used fabric to fit and dress the body. There was one dress in particular from the early 30s that we spent about 30 minutes looking at as the cut was fascinating. There were multiple panels used to shape the body and add subtle detail to a simply patterned fabric. 
The dress is pictured here (courtesy of the V&A) and as you can see there is a criss-cross effect on the front, that she used a lot in her designs, but she then echoed it on the sleeves too and there is also a detail on the pocket to also echo the shape. The panels at the lower part of the criss-cross on the front then reach the hem allowing for fullness to be created. It is well executed and highly inventive.
This was just one of the fascinating outfits that we admired from her earlier work, although she was revolutionary throughout her career. The final thing that really took my breath away was that she was still designing up until her death. She passed away in 1971 aged 87 and two weeks later her final collection was displayed - comprising of 76 outfits. I hope I am still involved and competent at that great age.
She was a fascinating character and it intrigued me that she was self made, worked hard and remained single (although had by all accounts multiple relationships). Fiercely independent and a more than capable business woman who new how to re-invent her product range to appeal to women and make them feel attractive and feminine no matter their age.
Unfortunately, the exhibition closes next week (10th March 2024), however, there is still an opportunity to watch the BBC Programme about Chanel BBC Four - Arena, Coco Chanel Unbuttoned (available until August 2024)
There has also been a dramatisation recently released about the relationship between Chanel and Dior during and post WWII. Unfortunately it is being aired on Apple TV which I do not have access to, but if anyone out there does please watch as it looks amazing. I am hoping that at some point it may get transferred/sold to another more accessible service. It was aired from the 14th of February 2024. Here is an article about it in Glamour magazine: The New Look: Apple TV+ Drama Charts The Rivalry Between Coco Chanel & Christian Dior | Glamour UK (glamourmagazine.co.uk).