Our skin has an outer layer known as the epidermis that’s believed to be made up of at least 4 layers in the skin of the facial area, although it is made up of at least 5 layers on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands.
The epidermal skin is made up of squamous epithelial cells, and individually known as squames or keratinocytes. These cells go through a life cycle from the point of development (in the base layer of the epidermis) and travels up to the outer layers at the surface.
The lower part of the epidermis is an area of cell production; the cells at the base divide and create new living cells composed of protein, and these then start their journey up to the skin’s surface. This journey can take from around 28 days, although it is believed, as you mature, this process slows down.
During the cell’s journey they pick up their pigmentation, start to go through a change where the cell starts to dry out, change shape, become hardened and eventually the cells die and form what are known as ‘squames’ which are dead keratinocytes.
These linger on the surface and held by what are known as natural ‘sticky sugars’, until the cells either fall off naturally or are removed by mechanical methods like rubbing on clothing, fingers or wash cloths.The other method is by using a product or an electrical tool or machine to quicken this process.
Unfortunately, sometimes people really go overboard with exfoliating, as there are so many methods that you can have to hand. Purchasing the wrong product or tool is one mistake that is often made, together with using a product or tool too vigorously or too much, by not following the manufacturers' instructions or buying something that is not suitable for your skin. An example of this is facial scrubs and scrubbing devises.
Some facial scrubs are formulated with nut shells and ground up stones, such as pumice. Now don't get me wrong, these do have a place in your beauty routine but not for your face. Pumice has traditionally been used to exfoliated the soles of the feet for centuries, but on the face, it is too harsh. In the 1980's, we started to see many manufacturers' make facial scrubs with walnut, almond or coconut shells - wow, many young women ended up with red abraded skins, that were then sensitive. These products are far too abrasive for the facial skin, and even on the body need to be used with care.
We've probably all know about the loofah, and many of us have probably used one when in the bath! Not a device to use on the face, and you will find a selection of similar devices using Konjac and nylon that are used to exfoliate the skin. Please try not to use them on the face, although Konjac is often used on the face but must be used with extreme care. Most of these are fine in your body skin care routine, but even there use carefully, as you can still abrade the skin there as well.
Then, there are metal devices! There is a treatment called 'Dermaplaning' and this is best applied by a professionally qualified and fully insured aesthetician or beauty therapist - not one to try at home! There are also skin abraders that are advertised as removing fine hair, and obviously this hair can be found on
the face - it's known as vellus hair, the hair that gives the facial skin its peachy appearance, this is not only removed during 'Dermaplaning' but also using these abrading devices. But the abrasive devices are far too harsh to use on the face, and even when used to remove leg hair have to be used with extremely care.
Exfoliation is best performed with a designated product for your skin condition. There are many types, such as gentle facial washes with small rounded beads of rice, or it could have a retinol or an AHA/BHA ingredient included; plus, there are fruit enzymes that dissolve that sticky sugar.
Using a device is also available such as using a sonic spatula, that, when used with your cleanser, helps to lift the dead squames or cells off so that they are rinsed off with the cleanser.
A gentle exfoliation will make the skin look radiant and fresh, and definitely not red and sore! If you carry out an exfoliation treatment at least once a week it really helps your skin to develop a little quicker but look more youthful, as the tired looking dead cells are removed from the surface to expose slightly younger cells.
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