These are our thoughts on photography: the experiences we've had, the lessons we've learned, and the mistakes we've made, which are quite substantial. However, the only way to truly learn is through making mistakes. It's important to identify where we went wrong and to avoid repeating those errors, or at least to try our best not to make the same mistakes again and again and again. We're not perfect, and really, who is? Most of these blog posts may not make much sense, but we are having fun creating them, and that's what really matters: enjoying the process.
Throughout our lives, we have owned a multitude of film cameras. I remember growing up in the 1970s; our family's camera was quite old, yet we still managed to take great photos with it. It was a Kodak Box Brownie, which I still have, and yes, it remains in excellent working order.
When Lyn and I got married, we would take our happy snap camera along with four or five rolls of film and capture as many moments as possible. The fun was in the anticipation of waiting to receive our photos back, eager to see how they turned out. There were always surprises, like a thumb accidentally crossing the lens or a half-visible Uncle Jack. Which half of Uncle Jack would appear top or bottom always seemed to vary!
Although film cameras still exist today, they are primarily used by amateur and professional photographers who want to capture a distinct style. In some cases, they choose to forgo the modern technology found in 21st-century cameras, opting instead for a more traditional and organic approach to photography. Editing film photography is a highly skilled and an art form in its own right. However, I do not intend to diminish the skills involved in contemporary editing. These are also highly skilled and an art form which we are finding out.
Being a photographer is about the journey and the passion for photography. I've often been asked by people I know if I consider myself a photographer, and my answer is an unequivocal yes. You don't need to have thousands of dollars worth of equipment to be a photographer. If you love taking pictures and have a passion for photography, then you are a photographer, and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Whether you take with a smartphone, a budget camera, or a very expensive camera, you are definitely a photographer.
Taken on a smartphone way back at the start. Then edited.
If you wake up in the morning, look out the window, and see a beautiful day, thinking, "That would make a great photo," then you are a photographer. If you're out walking and notice how droplets of rain drap across a tree or a footpath, and you think, "That would make a great photo," you are a photographer. If you see reflections bouncing off anything and say, "Wow, that would make a great photo," then you are, indeed, a photographer. Now that we have realised you are a photographer, then get out and take photos.
Everyone carries a powerful camera with them every day, and that is your smartphone. Smartphones can function as mini professional cameras. Starting with a smartphone is a great choice; we still use ours today. Sometimes, there simply isn't enough time to pull out a dedicated camera, but your phone is always accessible and quick to use. Set your phone or camera to take Raw and JPEG images. Raw is like a negative; it captures everything your camera can collect. In the long run, it will allow you to work more within editing. Raw images are larger files. While they take up more space, having the RAW files will be beneficial for any editing you want to do. But a small note, learn editing on JPEG first. Editing raw files can be somewhat different; JPEGS are generally easier to learn with.
Every smartphone has a pro camera mode, which allows you to experiment with the exposure triangle. Understanding this concept is crucial for any photographer, and it's one of the essential skills that beginners need to learn, even if it takes some time to master, like it did for me.
Photography pivots around light: understanding, controlling, and reading it.
Let me explain what aperture is in photography. Aperture refers to how wide open the lens is and how much light is allowed to pass through to the camera sensor. You'll see it represented on your camera as F/16 or F/2.8 or F-something else. The larger the number, the less light enters the lens; conversely, the smaller the number, the more light comes in. It may seem counterintuitive, but that's how it works. There is a complete explanation for this, but it's so long. I'll write something later. Additionally, the "F" stands for the focal length.
Shutter Speed is simple: It refers to the speed of the shutter that covers your sensor, or how fast or slow your shutter opens and closes. But mainly it refers to the closing speed. This also controls how much light gets to your sensor. So, a fast shutter speed means the shutter only exposes the sensor to light for a short time, depending on the speed of the shutter. And a slow shutter speed will expose the sensor to the light for a longer time, depending on the time. I say time because that's what it is. You'll see shutter speed shown as 1/1000 of a second. And depending on your camera, it may be able to stay open for say 10 minutes or way more. Setting the shutter speed will depend on what you are taking. Fast-moving like a flying bird, you may need to set it as fast as 1/2000 or even faster. If you wish to do something like a milky waterfall effect, then you may need to do it in 1 minute or 10 minutes, depending on the effect and the lens.
ISO is the final component of the exposure triangle. ISO stands for International Organisation for Standardisation. Sometimes, you may find yourself needing to set your shutter speed and f-stop to specific values, and then you might notice that your image is either too bright or too dark. This is where you can change that by adjusting your ISO. Instead of simply raising the ISO as I used to do, it's important to understand the trade-offs involved. Increasing the ISO can introduce noise, which often manifests as a grainy appearance in your photos.
While I'm not suggesting you completely avoid raising the ISO, there are definitely situations where it's necessary to do so. However, I recommend keeping it as low as possible whenever you can. Although achieving a low ISO may not always be feasible, it's important to remember that there is always a trade-off involved. Personally, I prefer a slightly darker aesthetic in my photographs, so I typically set my ISO between 100 or 400 when possible. This setting works for me, but it might not align with your style. It's essential to experiment with your camera settings to find what works best for you.
Understanding these three elements is crucial for effective editing. Getting them correct, or at least close to your vision, will significantly simplify the editing process.
Grab your smartphone or camera—whichever you have—and go out to take photos. Capture thousands of images! It doesn't matter if you're using manual or auto settings; just take, try, and learn. Now, let's talk about editing. I know it's been a long journey, but I believe it's been an important one.
This is one Lyn took a couple of years ago with her phone. We just gave it a little edit.
When we started getting more serious about posting our photos, I realised I needed to edit them. I had been watching countless YouTube videos about editing and posting when I should have been doing housework and cooking dinner. Everywhere I turned, the focus was on Lightroom and Photoshop. I wasn't sure if I wanted to invest in those monthly subscriptions just yet!
Instead, I ended up using Snapseed, a free photo editing app for your phone. I'm not promoting it or saying you should use it, but it is quite a powerful piece of software. I've never liked when people insist you have to use a specific tool, so I want to emphasise that Snapseed worked for me at that point. With some practice, I became good at using it and produced some nice edited photos.
You also have Lightroom Mobile, which is free, as well as Photoshop Express Image Editor. While these are free apps and do come with some limitations, you won't have access to all the functions unless you pay. However, they are great options nonetheless.
If you're anything like I was, you might be tempted to push all the sliders to their maximum settings, which can result in some interesting photos. If your goal is to create more digital art, that's perfectly fine—I've created quite a few myself. But if you simply want to improve your photos, then use a softer touch to the sliders. Less is better your just trying to help bring out the best of your photo.
This is what pushing the sliders to their max will look like. We still like it.
As I got closer to selling our photos, I realised that the apps I was using just weren't sufficient anymore for several reasons. The first issue was that I couldn't adjust the DPI (dots per inch). To explain a bit of the technical side: for printing high-quality images, you need a minimum setting of 300 DPI. This means that for every inch (25.4 mm) of the image, there are 300 dots of printing ink. A setting of 300 DPI is the commercial minimum; you can set it higher, but if you want to print in larger sizes, you can't go lower than 300 DPI. Unfortunately, the apps I tried didn't allow me to make this adjustment.
A quick note: whatever software you choose, ensure it can open your camera's RAW files. Each camera manufacturer has its own RAW format, so please check first.
Another reason is more personal. I have a disability and use crutches to move around, which presents some interesting challenges when taking photos. I often find it difficult to get into the best positions or to walk long distances to avoid obstacles like cars, buildings, light poles, people, and signs. You get the idea.
While a free app for removing unwanted elements can be useful, it often comes with limitations. For instance, if I want to sell our photos, I can't have a delivery truck blocking the view of a beautiful old house. Unfortunately, paid editing programs provide better support and more powerful tools for handling these situations effectively.
I waited a year and a half before finally deciding to buy a subscription to Lightroom. Suppose you're considering selling your photos at any point. In that case, maybe look at better editing software or one of the equivalent editing programs because it allows you to set your DPI. Somehow, I ended up with Adobe Creative Cloud instead of just Lrc. While I now recommend going that route, I'm not quite sure how I ended up with Creative Cloud, so I'm hesitant to offer specific advice on it.
Just have fun taking photos, exploring beautiful places, and meeting amazing people. Start your journey into photography.
Another photo by Lyn, unedited, just as is.
Wayne & Lyn + (Always plus Cat)
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