Salzburg: The Rome of the North

Sit down at Cafe Tomaselli without catching the head waiter's eye and you will stay invisible for ten minutes. Salzburg runs on rhythms, and this guide teaches them kindly.

A photo led, first person guide to the baroque city under its fortress: Hohensalzburg and the funicular, Mozart's Birthplace on Getreidegasse, beer straight from the wooden barrel at the Augustiner, and the Mozartkugel switch most visitors never learn, silver foil for the original.

Inside the guide:

• The icons decoded: the fortress, the cathedral, Getreidegasse's guild signs and Mirabell Gardens

• Where to eat and drink: Salzburger Nockerl, the Tomaselli ritual and barrel beer at Mulln

• Where to stay, Old Town romance against New Town quiet

• Best photo spots with their light hours, plus Steingasse at dusk and the St Peter catacombs

• Watch Out: costume concert touts, reseller fees and carriage fares, plus itineraries for 1, 3 and 5 days

18 full-color photographs, panoramics leading the way: the Rome of the North, rhythm learned.