The approach to this training program is to perform a combination of exercises to train raw finger strength while also being able to apply it in real movement while climbing. The program gives you a variety of exercises so you will gain practical finger strength without getting bored. Your goals for strength should be based on your projects, but you can also define a grade that you want to accomplish. A goal can be to hold on a 10mm edge for 10 seconds. or “to do 10 rows on the campus board in a row” Goals should be measurable, testable and applicable to different parts of your climbing: projects, a new onsight grade or competition. The chart below shows the energy types targeted as the main objective.
What to expect out of this effective training manual?