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ROUTE SETTING ESSENTIALS - Definitive Guidebook

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Route setting, also known as coursetting, is the process of creating climbing routes for the sport of free climbing. By fastening climbing holds to artificial climbing walls, a route emerges that provides a challenge for climbers. It is a difficult process usually requiring either a skilled climber or a lot of time and test climbs. However, this screw-on method is not the only way to set routes, in the context of this guide, we consider route setting as a climbing-design skill, therefore the route setting activity happens within your imagination, using the wall and holds as a canvas. You will learn to create permanent masterpieces, or temporal fun projects that will disappear the same day.

This guide will take you from beginner to semi pro in terms of routes settings. This is what you will be able to:

  • Set effective routes targeting a specific style or muscle group
  • Create skill-building training circuits for your endurance training
  • Set routes for competitions be bouldering or lead
  • Set routes for project-training
  • Visualize route patterns and markup your own routes
  • Create effective climbing drills and bouldering exercises for you or for other climbers.


GUIDE HIGHLIGHTS

Route Design
How to design routes of multiple styles and themes

Hold Types
Learn about hold types and potential combinations

Testing
How to make sure your routes are high quality and well rated.

Setting Process
Broken down setting process from start to end.

Walls and Gyms
How to read the walls and adapt your ideas to the surfaces.

Innovating
How to step out of the mold and bring in new ideas to the gym.

Tools and Techniques
How to use the resources you have to create routes.

Themes and Styles
Exploring the themes and general route setting styles.

Building Skills
How to turn your routes into climbing lessons that teach skills.
You will get a PDF (5MB) file