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Bellows Pocket Pattern

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This Bellows Pocket Tutorial will be essential information on this blog for the coming months, if not years. I will be referring back to this tutorial often, so I will ask you to use the print-friendly button on the side of the screen and print the tutorial.

Bellows Pockets are also known as Gusset Pockets and are part of the applied pockets category. It derives its name from the pleats that, when not in use, allow the pocket to lay flat over the garment, but when in use, it expands. This utility and low profile make it very popular in military uniforms and sportswear.

There are many designs of bellow pockets, as the drawing underneath shows you. Many can be complicated to sew, so I have worked a couple of hours to develop the easiest pattern to share with you. I do hope you find the pattern below practical and accessible.
You will get a PDF (376KB) file