Fringe Kiss Shawl
any size, any gauge, no counting, no end-weaving, self-fringing, symmetrically faded (or striped)
This shawl begins at the bottom center point and expands outward. Extra stitches are cast on that will later be unraveled to create the fringe. At the halfway point, the edges are joined but the stitches are also split at what used to be the center, so you’re still working back and forth in rows, rather than in the round. This construction is a little unusual, so I’ve included diagrams at each stage to try to help you visual what you’re doing.
Roughly twice as wide as it is tall, excluding fringe
Sample: 80 inches wide by 40 inches tall, excluding 6-inch fringe
GAUGE (after blocking)
Any gauge that produces a loose, drapey fabric in the yarn of your choice
Sample: 22 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Any weight yarn in any amount you like
Sample: A Thing for String Merino Sock 75% merino, 25% nylon; 460yds/421m per 100g skein; 1 skein each in Taiga (A), Galaxy (B), and Eureka (C)
Circular needle in an appropriate size to give a loose, drapey fabric in the yarn of your choice
Sample: US #4/3.5mm circular needle, 32 inches/80cm in length
Small scale for weighing yarn
4 stitch markers
NOTE ON GAUGE: Although the entire shawl is worked in garter stitch, a quarter of the fabric is created by purling every stitch rather than knitting every stitch. It is important that your purled garter gauge be relatively close to your knitted garter gauge.
NOTE ON YARN CHOICES: Though this pattern is written for 3 coordinating yarns that fade together well, you could use a single gradient yarn instead and let it do the fading for you. Or use more than 3 yarns and fade more frequently. You could even try stash-busting all your leftover bits as simple stripes in lieu of fading. It’s up to you!
Best to avoid single ply, mohair, and other “grabby” yarns, as these could present a challenge when dropping stitches and laddering down to create the fringe.