Dubai: Beyond the Mirage

Cardamom coffee from a brass dallah in a coral stone courtyard at two in the morning, a glass deck at the top of the tallest building in the world two hours later: Dubai runs on impossible scales, and the postcards only show you half of it.

This first person guide does the Burj Khalifa and the Fountain at its feet, crosses the Creek on the one dirham abra, eats from Bu Qtair's fried fish and Ravi's plastic chairs to Orfali Bros, explains how the alcohol rules actually work since the 2023 reform, and names the safari licence check and the massage card trap before they cost you.

Inside the guide:

• The famous sights: Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall as an indoor city, Palm Jumeirah, the Marina and the Museum of the Future

• Where to eat: shawarma and machboos, the budget legends, mid range favorites and fine dining

• Where to stay neighborhood by neighborhood, plus best photo spots with the exact place to stand

• Hidden gems: the Coffee Museum, the Ras Al Khor flamingos, Alserkal Avenue and the Al Qudra lakes

• Watch Out: airport taxi tricks, fake Burj Khalifa tickets and safari upsells, plus itineraries for 1, 3 and 5 days

18 full-color photographs, 7 wide panoramics among them: beyond the mirage, for real.