Exploring the Bays of Mġarr: A Day of Beach Hopping, Kayaking, and Hiking
In this post, I guide you through a full day of adventure along the Mgarr coastline, combining kayaking, hiking, swimming, and breathtaking views. Starting from Mgarr, you'll kayak from Gnejna Bay to the hidden Santa Marija Cave, enjoy lunch with a view over Golden Bay, and follow a scenic trail to the Ghajn Tuffieha Tower. From there, you'll explore Ghajn Tuffieha Bay and catch a perfect sunset - with an optional detour to Qarraba Hill for an even more serene sunset spot.
Most of the places are accessible by public transport, though it can sometimes be slow, crowded, and hot--especially during Summer. Renting a car offers more flexibility, but be aware that traffic can be heavy during peak hours and parking is often difficult to find. Alternatively, Bolt is a convenient and affordable taxi option, particularly cost-effective if you're sharing the ride.
Start your day early in Mgarr, a small, rural village located in the North West of Malta. It's mostly famous for it's countryside, beaches and a handful of restaurants serving typical Maltese food.
Mġarr is home to three beautiful bays: Ġnejna, Għajn Tuffieħa, and Golden Bay—though technically, the latter falls within Mellieħa's boundaries. You’ve probably heard of Għajn Tuffieħa and Golden Bay, two of Malta’s most iconic beaches, famed for their reddish sand and stunning sunsets. However, the nearby Ġnejna Bay often flies under the radar.
For the best beach conditions, especially if you’re planning water activities, make sure the wind isn’t stronger than force 3 from the west. I recommend spending the day beach hopping between all three, starting at Ġnejna Bay. There, you can rent a kayak from Ġnejna Watersports—located right on the beach—and paddle along the rugged coastline. A highlight is the Santa Marija Cave, a hidden gem only accessible by water. It takes around 30 to 40 minutes to reach the cave by kayak, depending on your pace. Don’t worry if you’re a beginner—the route is manageable even for those with little kayaking experience.
Santa Marija Cave
Important: Before setting off, be sure to check the wind conditions, especially if you plan to visit the cave. If the wind exceeds force 3, the journey becomes difficult and is not recommended. When in doubt, give Ġnejna Watersports a call to confirm if conditions are safe for kayaking.
From Ġnejna Bay, make your way to Golden Bay and enjoy the panoramic views from Apple's Eye. It’s a great spot to stop for lunch or simply relax with a drink while soaking in the scenery. Afterwards, head down to the beach for a swim. While watersports are available here too, they tend to be pricier—and honestly, they probably won’t beat the unique experience of kayaking to Santa Marija Cave.
Once you’ve had your enough time on Golden Bay, continue on to Għajn Tuffieħa. I highly recommend walking between the two bays along the scenic trail that leads to the Għajn Tuffieħa Tower, rather than taking the main road. The walk is short—less than a kilometer—but the sweeping views of all three bays from the tower are absolutely breathtaking and well worth the detour.
You’ll notice that Għajn Tuffieħa Bay sits between Ġnejna Bay and Golden Bay, and you might wonder—why wasn’t it the next stop after Ġnejna? Well, you’ll soon see why: Għajn Tuffieħa is one of the best spots to catch the sunset!
To get there, you'll descend around 200 steps, but it’s worth every one. This beach has everything you could want—and more. From the top of the steps, your first glimpse of the bay, framed by dramatic cliffs and clay slopes, with its striking red sands, is unforgettable. Stay for sunset if you can; swimming as the sun goes down is a magical experience.
Sunset at Għajn Tuffieħa
If you’re up for a little more adventure, consider a short hike to Qarraba hill. The coastal trail connecting Għajn Tuffieħa to Qarraba is known for its stunning scenery—think clay ridges, limestone cliffs, and hidden coves. From the hilltop, you’ll get an even more panoramic view of the sunset over the bay.
After a full day, if you’ve still got some energy left, head back to Mġarr for dinner. I recommend United Restaurant, a popular spot with the locals, for authentic Maltese cuisine, or Bottega Frawli—an amazing wine bar with delicious platters and the best focaccias I’ve had in Malta. It’s one of my absolute favourite spots.
If you love seeing Malta through a local’s eyes—discovering hidden gems, exploring both near and far, and sharing great food spots with friends—you’re in the right place. If you enjoy days out like this, don’t miss my other favorite spots:
Southern Malta Guide: Best Kayak Spots, Viewpoints & Easy Hikes
Kayaking in Malta: Coral Lagoon Adventure and an Optional Stop at Mellieha Bay
Happy Travels! x
Have questions or want a personalised recommendation? Drop a comment or reach out on Instagram @journeywithme.mt - I'm always happy to help fellow travellers discover the best of my islands.
Disclaimer: All content and photos in this blog post are my own unless otherwise stated. Please do not copy, reproduce, or use any images or text without written permission.