I know a lot of knitters struggle to trust their own knitting ability when it comes to making stranded colourwork socks but if you can knit stranded colourwork for mittens, hats or yoke sweaters you already have the foundation skills to not fear colourwork socks. Especially if you're already a sock knitter and know your personal sock preferences for plain sock knitting then this will only be levelling up those sock knitting skills.
First of all if you're a lover of the knitted gauge swatch then your already winning. A swatch is the knitters best friend get comfy and relaxed and cast on because a sock is basically a working swatch already. They work so well, you don't have to cut your lovely yarn to measure them flat because you will be working in a small circumference anyway, you can just pull back a bit and adjust stitches or needle size to gain your customs needs and continue again without any yarn waste.
Usually when knitting in a plain fabric like stocking stitch you'd have a personal standard tension and in fingering weight yarn mine tends to be around 28 sts per 10cm, when knitting in stranded colourwork your knitting gets a bit denser and firmer so using the same needles I would get around 32 sts per 10cm or more depending on the colourwork pattern.
So you can see that for my 20cm circumference ankle I might want to pick a size that has maybe 6-8 stitches more than I'd usually cast on for a plain sock if I want the size to be somewhat similar but this also depends on your colourwork gauge so again always swatch as this helps you see how your fabric is coming out and how even your stitches are.
I also like to use colour dominance where possible as that can also create a difference so if you have one colour in one hand and another colour in the opposite hand I'd try and stick to that colour to hand choice throughout so your stitches and gauge stay even and consistent throughout your knitted piece.
Also different colourwork patterns can come out different tensions just like texture stitches so always do a swatch.
Another tip is to go up 0.25 or 0.50mm on your chosen/regular needle size it won't create a crazy amount of difference that your stranded colourwork will look messy and untidy but it will give you a bit more ease and even make your fabric a little less dense so the stretch in the sock will be more forgiving.
You will NEVER need to have negative ease for a stranded colourwork sock, so if you see patterns with negative allowance stay clear of knitting these. Your socks won't have enough give to squeeze over your instep and it will be a fail project from the get go.
So when picking a size pick one with 0 ease or a little positive like + 1-2cm is better than anything negative.
If you measure the width of your sock or working swatch and it measures the same as your usual socks and no less that means it will most likely have some stretch and it will fit if you are smaller that means you have some adjustments to make. And when measuring don't go stretching it to make it give the illusion because then you're setting yourself up for a fall.
Another tip is if you get the width and you'll have stretch but want to add some certainty then shorten the leg length. If you aren't sure the less leg length you have to stretch over your instep means it's on and off quicker and less likely going to get stuck or snag on your heel.
Also NEVER take gauge for your socks from a previously knit colourwork fingering weight sweater used with similar yarn, your gauge will differ hugely because you're working on a larger circumference, might have used other needles and most likely the fabric will be a bit more relaxed but you have more needle space also worn or knitted at a different time in life your tension will fluctuate.
If you worry about a large instep getting in the way of you getting on your socks on either needle sizing up or going up in the calf circumference by 1cm will help, they may not have the same hug you are used too on the lower ankle but that should help some as calves tend to be larger than ankles it will add a bit of room for your instep.
However not in all cases, so if your ankles are bigger then add this positive ease to your largest leg circumference and it should give you some space in your leg for the instep to pull your sock on and off without getting stuck.
Also picking a sock pattern that isn't 100% colourwork, my 'Sole Attraction' design which has the leg in stranded colourwork and stretchy rib in the upper foot means you aren't squeezing on an entire colourwork sock so it's nice for people who may have a larger instep or have need for more foot space it also has a nice heel and gusset which is better for fit purposes.
When making the Sole Attraction socks I measured my circumference about 5-6cm above my ankle bone which is 20.5cm which is the same size of my socks when laid flat. They also stretch up to 24cm circumference which is my leg just below my calf so a perfect fit. Which means in the lower ankle portion I have 3.5cm stretch/give to ease over my instep.
The lovely thing about my Sole Attraction socks is that a repeat of the pattern is so small you can knit it to figure out an approximate gauge and pull it back out and it won't have taken forever to do.
Colourwork Tension: Before you pick up to knit your next colour always spread out your previously knit stitches across the needle before bringing your new colour around the back of them to continue knitting. This will help with evening out stitches but I also found it helps with give too because once that needle is complete and those stitches relax the stranding in the back is as ease too and isn't pulling them tightly together meaning you can stretch out your knit fabric more.
Colourwork Tension Between Needles: I have a technique that I use and it might not be for everyone but if I'm using double pointed needles (you can do this using 2 circulars as well) but the gap between the needles when pulled tightly to not ladder can distort and tighten the first few stitches of your next needle depending on colour changes and create a bump or ridge instead.
I like to personally use this to conteract that and with a fresh needle I like to transfer the last 3-4 stitches, making sure I've got both colours involved in the back of the work of those stitches for better results. If not then pick back and twist your unused colour in to make sure it involved in the change over. Transfer these 3-4 stitches over to your fresh needle and continue knitting across the rest of the stitches on the next DPN. You can then slip those last stitch back onto the previous needle if you like or if you've got a beginning of round marker in place just keep going and readjust later when it's heel time.
It essential keeps the tension even as you then have no needle gap to account for when pulling tightly.
Tips List:
- Swatch First (even a small swatch in the round can tell you a great deal)
- Tension, knowing your personal gauge for a standard stocking stitch sock and gauge in a colourwork sock will help you determine a size more suitable.
- Needles, if in doubt go up a quarter or half size it will add some extra stretch and room without obscuring and making untidy stitches.
- Ease, slightly more in better than less.
- Check the circumferences of the pattern and whereabouts they're measured. Your ankle circumference will always be smaller than a calf circumference and sometimes designers measure between these points and some use foot circumferences instead which can be slightly fuller than your leg measurements.
- Spread out your previously knit colour on the needle before bringing your new colour around the back to knit.
My final tip for today is more for you personally, don't be hating on yourself because you haven't gotten the right specifics first time these things can be trial and error when it's your first time making them but then you have some foundation experience for making more in the future. It's all a learning curve and the fact that you are trying and giving something new a try is amazing and you should be proud and applauding your efforts.
Don't be discouraged by you early efforts, perfectionism and procrastination are too of the world main reason for creative stand still and make sure to take notes these might help you in future stranded colourwork endeavours.
Thank you for reading, I hope you liked this post and find it useful in someway.
If you also have any other tips or tricks then please add them below for any other knitters and share our own methods, we'd all love to hear them.
Nessa x
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