Upstream

Inspired by the strength and determination of salmon returning home, Upstream is a richly textured cardigan that rewards persistence with beauty. This design combines double seed stitch, beaded rib, a wave cable, and a unique fish cable motif into an intricate, cohesive whole.

Knit flat and seamed with drop shoulders, a mock turtleneck, and a button band, this cardigan is a true skill showcase. Advanced knitters will find plenty to sink their needles into: balancing multiple stitch patterns, shaping through increases, and following “at the same time” directions across several pages.

Challenging? Yes. But like the salmon swimming upstream, the journey is worth it. When you cast off, you’ll have a masterpiece to be proud of.

Finished Measurements: 

XS (S, M, L, XL)(2X, 3X, 4X, 5X), to be worn with Body Circumference 2-4”/ 5-10cm ease. 

Body Circumference: 31.5 (35.5, 39.25, 43, 46.75)(50.75, 54.5, 58.25, 62)”/ 80 (90, 99.5, 109, 118.5)(129, 138.5, 148, 157.5) cm

Back Shoulder Width: 17.75 (19.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25.25)(27.25, 29.25, 31, 33)”/ 45 (49.5, 54.5, 59.5, 64)(69, 74.5, 78.5, 84) cm

Length from Shoulder to Hem: 21.75 (21.75, 22.5, 22.5, 22.5)(22.5, 22.5, 22.5, 22.5)”/ 55 (55, 57, 57, 57)(57, 57, 57, 57) cm

Armscye Depth: 7.25 (7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 9.25)(10.5, 10.75, 11.25, 11.25)”/ 18.5 (19, 19.5, 21, 23.5)(26.5, 27.5, 28.5, 28.5) cm 

Sleeve Length: 17.5 (17, 16.25, 15.75, 14.75)(13.75, 13.25, 12.25, 11.75)” / 44.5 (43, 41.5, 40, 37.5)(35, 33.5, 31, 30)cm 

Sleeve Cuff Circumference: 9.75 (10, 10.5, 11.25, 13.25)(14, 14.75, 15.5, 15.5)”/ 25 (25.5, 26.5, 28.5, 33.5)(35.5, 37.5, 39.5, 39.5) cm

Collar Circumference: 17.25 (18.75, 22, 22.75, 22.75)(22.75, 22.75, 22.75, 25)”/ 44 (47.5, 56, 58, 58)(58, 58, 58, 63.5) cm

Collar Depth: 3”/ 7.5 cm

Button Band Length: 20.5”/ 52 cm

Materials:

De Rerum Natura Gilliatt 100% wool, 270y/ 250m; 100g/  3½ oz., 1073 (1152, 1257, 1350, 1493)(1577, 1712, 1780, 1844)y/ 993 (1067, 1164, 1250, 1383)(1460, 1585, 1648, 1708)m.  Sample shown in Poivre et Sel.

Eight 5/8”/ 1.5cm buttons.

Tools:

US 7 (4.5mm) 24”/60cm circular or equivalent needle in size necessary to obtain gauge; US 6 (4mm) 24”/60cm circular or size smaller than gauge needle; 12 stitch markers; tapestry needle.  

Gauge:

21 sts and 30 rows in a 4”/10cm swatch of combined stitch patterns using larger needle, blocked. 

Stitches and Abbreviations:

Note: When a column of knit sts is followed by a column of purl sts, sometimes a larger gap can develop in the stitch transition. If this is an issue, try ensuring the yarn is pulled snug after the knit stitch then wrapping the yarn under (rather than over) when you form the purl. On the next row, go through the back loop of the purl to ensure it’s not twisted.

1/1/1 LC: Slip 1 to front, slip 1 to back, k1, then k1 from back CN, then k1 from front CN

1/1/1 RC: Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and place at back of work, k1, slip left-most stitch from cable needle to LH needle, move cable needle with remaining stitch to front of work, k1 from LH needle, then k1 from cable needle

1/1/2 LPC: Slip 2 to front, p2 then p1, k1

1/1/2 RPC: Slip 2 to back, p1, k1, then p2

3/1/1 LPC: Slip 3 to front, p1, k1, then k3

3/1/1 RPC: Slip 2 to back, k3, then p1, k1

1/1 LC (RS): Slip 1 st to CN and hold at back, k1, then k1 from CN.

1/1 LC (WS): Slip 1 st to CN and hold at back, p1, then p1 from CN.

1/1 LPC: Slip 1 to front, p1, then k1 from CN

1/1 RC (RS): Slip 1 st to CN and hold at front, k1, then k1 from CN.

1/1 RC (WS): Slip 1 st to CN and hold at front, p1, then p1 from CN.

1/1 RPC: Slip 1 to back, k1, then p1 from CN

3/2 LPC: Slip 3 to front, p2, then k3

3/2 RPC: Slip 2 to back, k3, then p2

BO: Bind off 

Bobble: 1. [Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1] into the same stitch, turn work (to WS); 2. Slip 1, purl 2, turn work (to RS); 3. Slip 1, knit 2, turn work (to WS); 4. Slip 1, purl 2, turn work (to RS); 5. Slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch from right needle over the stitch just worked

CO: Cast on 

CN: Cable Needle

Inc 1: Increase by 1 stitch using backwards loop cast on or preferred method

K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together – 1 st decreased

K: Knit

M1: Increase a stitch, using backwards loop cast on or preferred method – 1 st increased

P: Purl

P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together  – 1 st decreased

Rep: Repeat

Reverse Stockinette: Purl on RS rows; knit on WS rows

RS: Right Side

Sl: Slip 1 stitch; RS Rows, purlwise with yarn at back; WS Rows, purlwise with yarn in front

Sm: Stitch Marker

Ssk: Slip, slip, knit  – 1 st decreased

St(s): Stitch(es)

W&t: Wrap and turn

WS: Wrong Side

Wyif: With yarn in front