Metal spool holder by LIKO (Snapmaker U1)

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Hi,

My spool holder replaces the factory U1 spool holders and adds all important features to your system, without requiring external boxes beside your printer.

WHY metal? WHY my product?

The metal rod-plate pair (unlike plastic holders) does not bend over years, filament spool will not rub against the wall.

Furthermore, I added very cool practical features to it. Just have a look at on the pictures. But you also can customise some parts or the look of it.

Have I mentioned? ...putting a spool into the air-tight* holder is just 15 sec (see the intro video) !

The price (8 euros) covers all files you need to add this spool holder to your brilliant U1 printer. And... it looks nice, gives all essential benefits and serves you long time.

I hope you will like my product and will purchase it.

Thank you.

LIKO

You will get a ZIP (7MB) file

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FEATURES

DURABLE DESIGN - metal parts carry the weight of filament: durable and spool does not rub against the wall

LONG-PRINT SUPPORT - sealings and silica-gel holder aims to keep the filament dry during days-long prints

AIRTIGHT? - almost. No holes, but not pressure-proof.

UNIVERSAL SPOOL SIZES - two adapters (different size) for all usual spool diameters

~ZERO CHANCE OF TANGLED FILAMENT - low (not zero) spool rolling friction eliminates roll overrun or loose filament loops

CUSTOMIZABLE PARTS - sightglass and PTFE modules are removable, you can redesign or add different function (eg. humidity meter)

EASIER U1 MAINTENANCE - spool holders can stay on U1 cover during U1 maintenance (factory parts must be removed)

FUNNY AND INSPIRING - adding a skin* to the holder - utilizing the multi-color printing capability of U1 - can make your printer unique. This is my BB8 idea... do you have other? Soccer ball? Pool 8-ball? Hot air baloon? Be creative!

IMPORTANT, before you purchase

- you will get one ZIP file (~10MB), it includes all .3MF files, ready to print on U1.

- you are allowed to download the ZIP file ONLY ONE TIME (Payhip registers it), either at purchase or later (link e-mail'd) but just once.

- there are 100+ ways to pay, via Stripe: cards, country specific methods, digital tools.

- you are allowed to use the files only(!) for your private purposes (see Licence section below).

- you can generate skins for yourself (see Licence section below).

- you will need to get the metal parts yourself or make them (cut them by saw).

- total print time is ~80 hrs (up to 140 hrs, depending on filament), ~2,5kg filament.

- if you dont understand what you will buy or how to make it, pls contact me before you purchase.

- this is my hobby but I am happy to help: will answer mails within 48 hours.

DETAILS

1) BOM (materials you need)

2) Files, Print settings

3) Assembly instructions

4) Usage, Maintenance

5) Others: Design, Credits, Licence

Please, have a look at on the picture, which shows both the parts and their names.

1) BOM (materials you need)

- ~2,5kg filament and the ZIP file from here

- 4x ~6x10cm, 2(3)mm thick metal plate *1. Link: plate

- 8x 70-78mm, 8mm smooth rod (stainless steel). Link: 8mm-rod

- 4x 120-123mm threaded rod: M8 (stainless steel). Link: M8-rod

- M8: 12x nut, 4x washer, (4x lock washer, optional)

- M3: 4x 20mm screw, socket headed! (buy 4x 25mm too, as extra)

- M3: 12x nut, 4x washer

- 4x ~5x5cm 0,5mm thick transparent plexiglass

- PTFE: 8x ECAS04 fitting; 4x~15cm OD 4mm tube. Link: ECAS04

- seal: ~2,5m OD 2,5mm silicon tube or 1,75mm TPU filament

Note: the BOM 'links' usually show only the proper type, but not the required size or quantity.

TOOLS:

- wrench, hex-key: for M3/M8 screws

- 8mm drill bit and machine: hole for the threaded rod

- metal saw: to cut metal plate/rod (optional)

*1 - metal plate:

the final size of the plate 'does not matter', but longer is better. If you use rectangle shape then 6x10cm is the longest fits in (the plate has to fit into a dia 200mm circle). I bought 2 of the 200x60x2 plates (link at BOM) and cut into half to get 1.

If you want/have to make it from a different plate, pls see PIC. The pic shows a 60mm wide plate, and the exact positions of other parts. that is: center of M3 and M8 (A) is 11 mm, the max distance from the center of M8 to the edge of the plate (B) is 8 mm ('cos you need access to M3 with a hex-key), and the plate HAS TO remain under/around the 'yellow' area (it is the positioning part of the PLUG).

2) FILES, PRINT SETTINGS

You will need to print out 16 files: 1 file is the PTFE adapter (free) and 15 files from the ZIP (paid).

>>> 1 file: PTFE adapter <<<

This adapter goes on the U1 filament feeder cube to hold the 'other end' of the PTFE tube. There are different dimensions of ECAS04 fittings. You can print my version of adapter, or what KEN830 designed (details and link at Legal section below) or anything else.

>>> 15 files: the ZIP <<<

You need to print each files only once: 8 for the 4x CAP-BASE pairs and 7 for the other parts. Actually, there are 19 files in the ZIP because there are 2 sets of the 4 BASE files, depending on the sealing solution you prefer.

The file naming in the ZIP I used for the holders is: LU-LeftUpper, LL-LeftLower, RU-RightUpper, RL-RightLower, viewing from the front.

GENERAL SETTINGS

1. I hope you did Dynamic Flow Calibration at least once, when you installed your printer. Pls do now, if you didn't.

2. Please set/do Heated Bed Leveling before printing each 15 files.

3. You should check and set your filament profile parameters to the filament you use, before you print.

4. Print settings: I used for all files the default Snapmaker settings (for both PLA and PETG parts), they are good and I had to defer only a few things, I listed them below. The major default settings were:

- 0,4 nozzle, 0,2 layer height

- 2 wall, 3 bottom, 5 top layers, 15% infill

- default speed, no support.

- most of my filaments were high speed, they print fine.

INDIVIDUAL SETTINGS FOR PARTS

These are the specific settings in the 15 files below. They are all set in the .3MF files, but make sure they are there. Also, please check the Objects/Plate in the Preview mode, to be sure these settings took effect (maybe different future Orca slicer SW will work differently).

1-PLUG: Support: YES. Wall: 3 layers. First layer: 0.22

2-HOLDER: Support: YES. Bridge.speed: 30 mm/s.

3-ADAPTER: Brim: only outter.

4-MISC: none.

5-SNAP: Support: YES (not 'Tree' but 'Normal', 'Grid', 90 degree). Variable layer height: YES (the top should be finer). Wall: 3 layers, bottom: 5 layers. Bridge.speed :30 mm/s. No brim.

6-VIEWER: No brim. Variable layer height: optional (you may want to set the top finer).

7-PTFE: No brim. Variable layer height: optional (you may want to set the top finer).

8-11 (x2)-BASE: Support: YES (default 'Tree auto'). Brim: YES.

12-15-CAP: Support: NO (file includes the scaffolding I designed, it saves ~8 hrs print time on each CAP). Varable layer height: YES (we all want the top part look finer than .2). Bridge.speed: 30 mm/s. Brim: Outter only, 5mm.

COMMENTS FOR PARTS PRINTING:

- PLUG: The plug is sensitive since its in(!) the printer house and therefore it could warm up when the air in the U1 is warm. You will need a temperature resistant but also flexible (plug has a rarely 'moving' part) material: its not PLA, it should be at least PETG or ASA/ABS.

- ADAPTER: when you print the ADAPTER, dont flip back any of the parts upside down. I know they look weird on the plate, but the thread will work much better this way.

- BASE: There are 2 sets (2x4) files for the base. The print settings are the same, the only difference is the groove dimension for the sealing: the 'tube' is for OD 2,5mm silicon tube, while the 'TPU' intended for 1,75mm TPU filament as sealing (pls note, I could not test the groove for the TPU version, but I think the 1,5x1,5mm groove should be good). Print the version according to your sealing solution.

- BASE: the importance of the support is to have a proper shape at the bottom: there is a circular groove along the edge and it must look nice to fit on the U1 side cover.

- BASE: if the Orca does not slice a support for the top of the 2x 'windows' (1-1 for the VIEWER and PTFE modules), its not a problem: the bridge will be fine.

- CAP: dont increase the bridge speed (keep 30 mm/s or even less), otherwise the inside of the CAP will look not nice.

3) ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

You have to prepare a few sub-assemblies before put everything together. You will find guiding pictures and videos at/below each description.

Dont worry, the entire assembly is not complicated and will not take more than an hour.

SUB ASSEMBLIES

A) PLUG sub-assembly

A.1- remove all supports: supports are at two(!) height, please remove both (see PIC)

A.2- insert the socket head(!) M3 screw and put the 1x washer and 2+1x M3 nut on it (see PIC)

A.3- this will be the most difficult: leave some gap between the plug and the washer, and strongly lock the 2x M3 nuts against each other (use 2x wrenches/pliers) (see PIC)

A.4- screw must turn freely, test it: (see VIDEO)

A.4.a -> turning clockwise OPENs the lock to install or remove the plug.

A.4.b -> turning counterclockwise resets the toggles into released position to LOCK the plug.

B) metal sub-assembly

B.1- cut the M8 threaded rod to proper size (sizes are in BOM section)

B.2- prepare the metal plate: cut to proper size if necessary to fit into the BASE (I suggest 6x10cm, 2mm thick)

B.3- make sure you have holes/access to both the M8 threaded rod and the M3 socket headed screw, at correct position on the plate (see PIC at BOM)

B.4- turn 1 nut on the M8 rod about 1/3 way

C) assemble together the plug (A) and the metal (B)

C.1- see VIDEO

C.2- tighten the M8 screws strongly!

C.3- optionally, you can add a lock-washer, too (above the washer).

C.4- when done, it should look like PIC below.

C.3- its NOT a problem if the plug slightly loose and can be a bit rotated (why? read Design section for Plug)

D) VIEWER sub-assembly

D.1- cut a ~0,5mm transparent plexi ~5x5 cm size

D.2- put together the plexi, Viewer-lower and Viewer-upper parts

E) PTFE sub-assembly

E.1- find the proper PTFE 'window' part (LU,LL,RU,RL is printed on its inside) and push the ECAS04 fitting into it.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

This explains one side, lets say, LEFT side:

F.1- attach the 2x snaps to each of the BASEs (LeftUpper and LeftLower): just slide them in from the bottom.

F.2- attach the LeftUpper and LeftLower BASEs to each other with the 4 joints.

F.3/a- attach the BASEs to the left side cover: see VIDEO.

F.3/b- when you put the BASE to the side cover, pls note, there is a groove on the bottom of each BASEs because the cover has an elliptical bump.

F.3/c- there are metal-plate-stopper parts (optional) which fits underneath the plate and aims to stop the rotation of the plate. Actually, I dont use them because my ones does not move, but if you need, these are here.

F.4- when done, it should look like the 1st PIC

F.5- put the parts of the holder on the threaded rod: see VIDEO

F.6- when done, it should look like 2nd and 3rd PIC

F.7- slide the 2 modules into the BASE: the VIEWER and the proper PTFE modul.

F.8- insert the seal tube (or TPU) into the groove: there is no seal where the 2 BASEs touch each other. For seal routing see the PIC (at the very top of the page).

F.9- insert 2x PTFE fittings into the PTFE-FEEDER and put the PTFE-FEEDER part on the filament feeder cube.

F.10- connect the PTFE-FEEDER and PTFE module (on the BASE) with a PTFE tube. The PTFE tube should go-thru the fitting in the house: it will overhang.

F.11- Cut the tube. When you load a filament, it will help inserting the filament into the PTFE tube if the tube overhangs some centimeters into the base, and also, if you cut the tube diagonally.

F.12- Prepare the 2x CAPs: slide the silica holders into the slots.

Congratulations, the LEFT side is ready. Repeat these steps for the RIGHT side.

4) USAGE, MAINTENANCE

USAGE:

FILAMENT SPOOL DIRECTION: when installed, the spool on the bottom should rotate towards the feeder-cube. (see PIC)

SPOOL ADAPTER DIRECTION: when you put the adapter on the spool, make sure the nut-part is outside (towards you), not the screw-part. (see PIC)

PUTTING THE CAP ON THE BASE: there is a cap-guide on the lower-back side of the BASE, which helps you to put the CAP on.

MAINTENANCE:

Its maintenace free. The only one part may age is the PLUG, depending on both the heat stress it has from the printer, and, its material (PETG, ASA). You may need to replace it after a few years.

5) OTHERS: Design, Credits, Licence

Design

1. The key concept of the design is the METAL ROD-PLATE pair. Most custom spool holders (for any kind of printer) are usually fully plastic, they got bent over time, causing various mechanical problems. Here the metal parts both carry the weight and maintain the right angle, its durable.

2. The PLUG connects the entire spool holder to the side cover of the U1. The load on the toggles of the plug are very minimal, they just keep the plug in position. Rather, the weight of the filament rests on the shape of the plug and ultimately on the side cover. Therefore, a bit loose plug does not have impact on usage.

3. The HOLDER was the most tiring to design. I love when spool turns on bearings literally frictionless, but they usually cause loose loops and in the end causing stopped print. In my design, I ended at this two-rod solution, where the spool adapter rolls on 2 smooth metal rods. This works very good (I have not tested it with TPU, sorry).

4. The 2 'windows' from the BASE - the sightglass VIEWER and the PTFE for the filament - are slide-in modules, they are replaceable with anything you like. You can easily redesign these if you want to.

5. The two locks of the CAP are snap-on for quick opening, while CAP positioning is helped by a guide 'hump' and 2 positioning pins all on the top edge of the BASE.

6. I choose ECAS04 fittings for the O.D. 4mm tubes (over the PC4-M6/PC4-M10) because it has lower height. The spools are very close to the filament feeders on the U1, therefore I think, we need every centimeter between them. That is, I wanted to maximize the radius of the PTFE to minimize the friction of the filament.

History / Credits

All of the objects/files for this design I created from scratch, using my 10+ years 3D printing experience and testing my design variations I made specificly for U1. Sometimes I got inspired by general mechanical concepts, which I then tried to adapted to the purpose. There were some places where I have seen some representations of these usual mechanical concepts - sorry if there are better/other places elsewhere, Google gave me these-, here:

1. Plug: Many of us use the original Snapmaker factory toggle-method to connect the spool holder to the printer and I have seen many others just did the same way: plug it in-out, and hope it will stay there. My design is far beyond it, it is controllable both ways (open/lock) by a screw and it integrates connection to a metal sub unit and carries the weight. You are free to use the concept, but you have to re-design the part from scratch (see Licence section).

2. Snap: HUGO nicely applied the usual tool-box lock mechanism in his SnapLock models ( https://makerworld.com/en/models/2168356-snaplock-v3 ). We both started from the same concept ending at a totally different product. You are free to use the snap concept (as concept, not as file from me) since (of course) the 'wheel' as such can not be copyrighted.

3. PTFE adapter: KEN830's 'Snapmaker U1 PTFE Adapter (M6, M10, ECAS04)' looked good to hold the other end of the PTFE tubes, I printed it and it turned out my PTFE fittings have totally different dimensions, I could not push the ECAS04 into the hole. Therefore, I had to design my version, from scratch. If your ECAS04 is smaller, use KEN830's adapter ( https://makerworld.com/en/models/2176077-snapmaker-u1-ptfe-adapter-m6-m10-ecas04#profileId-2452346 ), if it is bigger then use mine ( see my Payhip page ), both are free.

Licence agreement

The purpose of this product is to make your life easier and inspire you to think, design, try things and make great products. The purchase allows you personal private use, only. That is, its a misuse if you give/use/make for your friends/relatives/colleagues/others (free or paid), or you try to make any profit, fame or other business value from my files.

Some illustrations of this approach, for the:

>>> FILES <<<: These are the downloaded files and the objects in it. You are OK to print for yourself (for max 2 U1 printer), but you are not allowed to share, upload, hand anything over: the files, objects or the printed parts.

>>> MODIFICATION OF MY FILES <<<: I will be really pleased if you think my design over and customize it for your own needs or improve them. For this purpose, you can split/cut/alter the objects. The only requirement here is what was written above at 'Files' (ie: only for yourself).

>>> IDEAS <<<: I am not a mechanical engineer, but I dont believe I have invented anything new here. That is, feel free to use any concept or approach you see in the design. You are not allowed to copy-paste any element of my files, you have to create yourself from scratch. I am sorry.

>>> SKIN <<<: you are allowed to create and share a skin for this product, if you keep these 3 rules: a) it must be a ‘skin’, see definition below. b) the name of the skin has to include ‘Metal spool holder by LIKO (Snapmaker U1)'. c) you have to clearly mention and put the Payhip link to my original product (this: https://payhip.com/b/Ei7gR ).

What is a SKIN?

It is a minor optional addition to the object. It modifies only the visual appearance; it does not modify the shape or functionality of the object. It is a thin shell only at the outside surface, only as thick as necessary (usually 1-2mm) and aimed to be printed in a different color from the base color of the object.

Should you have any questions, pls contact me.