Abi Cupped Corset Pattern
Each corset side comprises;
- a three-panel cup with 2 bottom cups and 1 upper cup
- 4 or 5 main panels (panel 2 can be split into 2 and 2a for additional shaping)
- 2 hip gussets
I've incorporated my bra pattern of 50 sizes into this cupped corset design. The wire size (30-46) has dictated the cradle shaping which has been incorporated into the front panelling if it is small enough to fit. It means that the bottom cup notch (and the matched seam 1/2) is at a slightly different position for each subsequent wire size (a few mm towards the centre back) - this doesn't matter as the panel 1/2 seam is straight with the only difference being the grainline orientation.
This design is very much about;
1. Ensuring the cup is positioned exactly at the correct position - at the comfortable bra band just underneath the bottom infra-mammary crease.
2. Using breast volume measurements rather than standard bra sizing - a comfortable wire size and bottom cup depth are the key measurements needed.
3. Subtly manipulating the two front seam lines to ensure correct contouring in the area to the side and underneath of the cups. Full Instructions are given.
The slight differences in the front panel seams vs. sizes means that the corset body can accommodate the many different wire/cup variations - 14 for all sizes above a UK12 (less for 8 & 10).
Regarding the straps - it's a matter of personal preference as to whether they are used - the upper cups can be trimmed into a curve at their top edge if not using straps. If the breasts are heavy they will help. If the cups are to be lined with a preformed cup or cut and sew foam (see the main instructions for how to do this) you may not need them, especially if the cup size is small. It should also be noted that vertical fabric tension is important - the bones need to very snug in their channels to prevent any fabric wrinkling in the cup area - the more bones there are underneath and at the sides, the more support and less fabric wrinkling there will be.
Cupped corsetry is not easy to do well so this design is intermediate to advanced in terms of difficulty, Some experience in bra making will also be helpful.
It is recommended that you make a toile to check the fit of the pattern and transfer any amendments to your pattern to ensure a perfect fitting corset.
Please take a look at my website www.corsetsbycaroline.co.uk where I have lots of information about corset making and where it is more cost-effective to buy this design (non EU countries only sorry).
There are no restrictions on the use of this pattern - use to your heart's content. I simply ask that you don't pass on the file or use it to, say, profit from a line of ready-to-wear corsets.