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Vivienne Cupped Corseted dress

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One of Corsets by Caroline's most popular designs, this is a modern 12-panel integrated cupped corset dress pattern with 62 variations of cup sizes. It has a beautiful curve to accentuate your waist. Sizes (UK) 8 -30 (US 4 - 26), waist 21-43''. A

A shorter corset version can also be made from the standard print (A4/letter) sized pattern - (indicated on the pattern). It is recommended that you make a toile to the under-bust measurement and adjust the hip/ waist from this - with cupped corsets it is imperative that the under-bust fits snugly so that the cups are pulled taught against the sternum (a wire will also help) in the same way as an elastic bra band - the cups will tend to flop forwards if this is not correct. Cut and sew foam will help with cup rigidity (as straps are not included as an option in this pattern).

Note on how to use this pattern: Cupped corsetry is advanced level corsetry. But before you are put off, know that anyone can attempt and create a good-fitting beautiful garment if good measurements are taken, the instructions are understood and followed, and the corset is sewn with precision and care.
The cups are drafted to cover a large number of sizes. Sister sizes are given as these are well known and understood, but the finesse of using this system is limited. It is better to take direct measurements of the breast and choose the cup, corset and cradle size.
In addition to ensuring the under-bust (and bottom of the cups) sit at the normal bra band, and the under-bust, waist and hip are correct for the model, two breast measurements are taken and the correct underwire needs to be assessed.
The cup consists of 2 bottom panels and 1 top panel. The two breast measurements taken are the bottom cup depth (BCD) and the cross cup width (CCW). These measurements dictate which 2 bottom cups within the nested sizes should be used. The BCD and CCW are linked according to standard measurements however the direct measurements taken may differ – the breast may be flatter for instance compared to its width and have a smaller BCD to CCW ratio. For the purposes of this pattern, err on the side of the BCD when choosing the bottom cups.
The wire size chosen should encompass the entire breast when splayed slightly. Assess a wire against the chart given and apply that wire size. Typical wire sizes against the BCD and CCW are given, and the cup sizes they cover. Wire sizes can accommodate sister sizing hence the numerous notch lines on the cradle on panels 1 and 2 that dictate where the bottom cup panels and upper cup panel are positioned. A 34 wire for instance can accommodate a 34B and a 30D – the D cup is larger in terms of its protrusion (BCD measurement) and the bottom cup panels are wider so take up more space than the B cup panels – the upper cup panel is adjusted to take up the remaining ‘space' on the cradle/wire. There are many adjustments that can be made to the cup using the combinations given that will result in a cup that is essentially made-to-measure.
Conventional wisdom dictates that the corset body should be made to fit initially (especially at the under-bust – the bra wires need to be held close against the sternum mimicking the elastic of a bra as much as possible) and the cups fitted properly afterwards.

This pattern is drafted in AutoCAD and available as an instant download - you will need to print out on size letter (A) or A4 paper making sure actual size and centre the print is ticked in your print dialogue box. INCLUDES A 25 PAGE DOCUMENT OF CORSET CONSTRUCTION NOTES!

The pdf is a large document - print only the patterns and construction notes you require - the pages to print are given on page 3.

This pattern forms one of the four patterns featured in my Corset Classics III collection.

Please take a look at my website www.corsetsbycaroline.co.uk where I have lots of information about corset making and where it is more cost-effective to buy this design (non EU countries only sorry).

There are no restrictions on the use of this pattern - use to your heart's content. I simply ask that you don't pass on the file or use it to, say, profit from a line of ready-to-wear corsets.
You will get the following files:
  • PDF (2MB)
  • PDF (3MB)
  • PDF (491KB)