1660s Stays (pair of bodies) digital pattern - a seventeenth century design sizes UK6-26 (US 2-22)

This design was inspired by a pair of fully-boned stitched Stays dating from the 1660s that are held at the V&A Museum in London - they have been developed from photos and hence are an interpretation rather than an exact copy of the extant garment. The notes give information about historical stays and how the pattern can be made in an authentic way however the instructions are for how to make them with modern sewing methods (machine stitching). The pattern is sized UK6-26 (US2-26) waist sizes 22-42''/ 56-107cm), bust sizes 30-50''/ 76-127cm.

The original pair of stays (or 'bodies' as they would have been known in the 17th century), that were the inspiration for this design are probably Dutch in origin; https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O10446/stays-and-busk-unknown/ The centre backs are joined together and the stays are laced at the centre front over a stomacher (wider at the top to create more space). The straps sit off the shoulders. The skirts (tabs at the bottom of the stays) do not splay but are sewn in place with gores (three per side) except for the back peak which is left unsewn and splays over the derriere. There is also a short split between panels 1 & 2 (bottom) however this can be sewn together if preferred. There is a short split at the top between panels 2 & 3 – the binding curves around this – again, it can be omitted and sewn together. Hooks may have been used at the front and back to hook on to the petticoats and hold them down – lower at the front and back than the sides. Sleeves were attached to these stays at a number of points at the shoulders with ribbon (note: no sleeves are included with this pattern). The fabric above the boning was embroidered to give a little more rigidity as well as for aesthetic reasons.

See the photo of the measurements for approximate sizes. As with all over-bust corset and stays patterns, this pattern is not a beginners' level sewing project. Although I include written information and diagrams with this pattern, I don't include a video of how to make these stays, sorry - there are plenty of YouTube tutorials on line if you are more of a visual learner made by lovely people who are much better at it than I am!

ALSO INCLUDES A 28 PAGE MANUAL OF GENERAL CORSET CONSTRUCTION & FITTING NOTES!

This pattern is drafted in AutoCAD and available as an instant download - you will need to print out on size letter (A) or A4 paper, making sure 'actual size' and 'centre the print' is ticked in your print dialogue box. It is imperative that Abobe Reader (free) is used as your PDF previewer as you will then be able to isolate/hide layers and therefore print out only the sizes/ line you require. The sizes are nested and boning channels are indicated (it's 'busy'!) for every size so the sizes not required will need to be isolated to make the pattern legible.

Please take a look at my website where I have lots of information about corset making.

Please remember that this pattern can't be used for commercial profit (such as a line of ready to wear corsets) - use to your hearts content, but only for yourself and clients!

Final 2 BTS photos taken at a shoot organised by Helen Bissell Bland (photography)

Model Erica Mulkern

HMUA Gemma Howell Beauty