Designed by Elizabeth Elliott in collaboration with Shibui Knits and Madelinetosh.
SizeNarrow Shawl (Full Size Shawl—sample size)
18 in/45.5 cm (23 in/58.5cm) wide, 67 in/170 cm (78 in/198cm) cm long
YarnShibui Knits Silk Cloud (60% kid mohair, 40% silk; 330 yds/300 m per .88 oz/25 g): 3 (4) skeins (shown in Icecap Solid)
Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (100% superwash merino; 420 yds/384 m per 3.7 oz/105 g): 3 (4) skeins (shown in Icecap Speckle)
Both yarns are held together throughout the pattern. See below for yardage estimates for each yarn and for one yarn held singly.
- US7/4.5 mm: straight needles: (14 in/35 cm), or circular needle(24 in/60 cm or longer) (or size needed for correct gauge)
- US6/4 mm: straight needles (14 in/35 cm), or circular needle(24 in/60 cm or longer) (or one size smaller than gauge needle)
Gauge23 sts & 30 rows = 4 in/10 cm in stockinette stitch with Silk Cloud and Tosh Merino Light held together, worked flat and blocked
Exact gauge is not essential, but differences in gauge will affect size and yarn requirements.
Notions3 stitch markers, yarn needle
About the YarnsShibui Knits Silk Cloud is a laceweight, kid mohair/silk blend with incredible loft and a very high halo. Both fibres give this yarn a beautiful lustre, while the mohair fills in the spaces around the stitches, allowing the yarn to be knit at a loose gauge for a light, airy fabric with no memory or bounce.
Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light is a fingering weight singles (1-ply) superwash merino yarn. The dyeing method used gives interesting colour effects, from semi-solids to speckles to variegated colourways. Superwash merino has some memory, though not as much as non-superwash; this memory helps the wrap keep its shape.
Both of these yarns are very soft and drapey. They each take dye differently, which gives depth to the fabric’s colour when they are worked together.
If substituting yarns for this project, you can use two yarns held together or a single strand of heavy fingering or sport weight. If you’re using two yarns, look for a fairly springy fingering weight plus either a high-halo laceweight for a fuzzy fabric with blurred stitch definition or a low-halo laceweight for a smooth, high-definition fabric. You could choose the same or similar colourways in both yarns, or go for contrasting yarns for a marled effect. If you’d prefer to work with one yarn only, look for a yarn with some memory that gives a fabric you like at the pattern’s gauge.
You will need approximately 1115 yds/1015 m (1655 yds/1505 m) of the fingering weight plus 870 yds/790 m (1290 yds/1175 m) of the laceweight if holding two yarns together, or 1115 yds/1015 m (1655 yds/1505 m) of a single, heavy fingering to sport weight yarn. In the sample, I used more of the Tosh Merino Light—using doubled yarn can be weird and unpredictable that way—so you may want to pick up an extra skein of the fingering weight to be on the safe side.